waggin wheel

Top photo, sister and brother Heidi Richmond and Dale Banfield by their unique new sign, made with love in Elba. Above, a sampling of fare offered at a private party Friday at the new restaurant.

Authentic Texas-style barbecue is what you'll find at a new restaurant that officially opens at 11 a.m. Monday at 8282 Park Road in Batavia. If you've never had it, you're in for a treat. If you've had a hankerin' for it based on past experience, here's your chance to enjoy anew.

The Waggin Wheel Restaurant & Lounge is located where the former 10-Cent Millionaire Tavern used to be. (Yes Waggin, not Wagon.) It's been freshly painted throughout, and the kitchen expanded and upgraded with new equipment.

Beef is the key menu item here, not pork. Sliced BBQ beef sandwiches on fresh kaiser rolls, "no Walmart buns." Dry-rubbed ribs. And for steaks, that means Angus beef, a premium, buttery smooth variety cooked over charcoal on specially made outdoor grills (crafted at Tri-County Welding in Batavia).

General Manager Dale Banfield, who runs the new eatery along with his sister, Heidi Richmond, compared Angus vs. regular beef to car buying.

"You can't go out and buy a Scion and think it's a Cadillac," he said. "You can't find Angus beef around here. It's the best there is. They're going to be amazed."

Premium meat properly cooked equals delicious.

"We're going for the quality," Banfield said.

Brisket was among the items sampled Friday at a private party to kick off the "soft opening" next week (starting at 11 a.m. Monday). It was melt-in-your-mouth delicious, juicy and flavorful. It was smoked in a large two-door portable smoker on the premises (nothing artificial here).

Texans, of course, like their barbecue sauce red. At each table, diners can choose a style of homemade sauce to their liking -- Texas, St. Louis, South Carolina -- which are kept in small squirt bottles.

There will also be fresh Italian sausage smoked over cherrywood for just a touch of sweetness, and pork.

Smoked pork chops are sublime, according to Banfield.

Sides are Southern-style. That means slow-simmered beans, cornbread that tastes like cornbread and not cake, hot macaroni and cheese, and piquant cole slaw: "I don't like a sweet slaw," Banfield said earnestly. Plus, greens, corn on the cob, all as locally sourced as possible.

Fresh-cut Cajun fries, a tuna-macaroni salad, and a creamy potato salad with chunks of red and green bell pepper and onion were also menu items sampled yesterday.

"Y'all come on and line up," Banfield told the hungry crowd. "We're gonna be bringing out some steaks and brisket and wings..."

"Y'all?" someone piped up.

"Yea, y'all," he replied jokingly. "And if y'all don't like it -- there's 'the doh' or as they say in Texas, 'the der.' "

A big grand opening with lots of fanfare will take place sometime in the next couple of weeks.

They plan to offer live entertainment on weekends. Eventually, they want to have live outdoor music on the property, which has a huge open area on one side of the 2,800-square-foot restaurant.

Inside, the 43-foot loooong, curved bar has been redone with raw pallet wood thickly coated in shiny resin. The full-liquor license should be in place anyday now, but until then there's soda pop ("...and the dancin's free..."). Eight large flat-screen TVs hang on the walls. Seating consists of small tables, upholstered fold-up chairs and plastic red-and-white gingham tablecloths.

Kids will feel at home in the family-friendly atmosphere.

Banfield was in the restaurant business in the Lone Star State for years (Dallas) before relocating to the Empire State for a job in 2004; some family members live here, too.

He likes what he does for a living and missed it when he was away from it.

"I like meeting the people and seeing the smiles on their faces from (eating) good food," he said.

Lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. / Dinner 4 to 10 p.m. -- Monday through Saturday. Closed Sundays. Off-site catering is available.

Phone is 201-7680. E-mail:   opbminc@gmail.com